So, in lieu of detailed discussion I offer this:
- In India DO NOT hire a guide. Do it yourself, you'll be fine, and you won't get dragged through a dozen shops and have sweet nothings whispered in your ear about how good the carpet you're looking at is.
- Mark Tuly, quoted AA Gill's AA Gill is Away was asked about how he dealt with the poverty in India. His response: 'I don't have to cope with the poverty; the poor have to cope with the poverty'. This is a very useful insight when travelling in India.
- In India, it is best to travel with a friend.
- To paraphrase Gill again, the Taj is not too passe. It is fucking stupendous, supremely magnificent. But don't try to take a stuffed cow into it, the guards won't let it in.
- Equally magnificent is the Agra Fort.
- In Delhi, you have to ask for the beer. It's not on the menu, but it is there. And Indian beer is not to be smirked at.